Outboard Discussions

[ebb]

Sometimes I spend a frustrating hour at breakfast looking on google for auxiliary sailboat  electrical schematics.  
It's amazing how difficult it is for a dummie to find something useful.

Here is an exchange between a boat builder (LP - Senior Member) who knows at the start more than I will ever know about electrical systems - and begins with a nice clear colorful diagram.  With input from others he updates the diagram as help arrives.  
In his opening post he says he'd 'like to put it in the electrical WIKI of
boatdesign.net
 for the benefit of others.'
This 8 page thread is worth a visit.  The schematics are in full page color and downloadable.

A338 is an OB Ariel, thus I find this basic short course in planning the wiring extremely usefull.  What makes it unique is the progression of the diagrams.
  What do you think?

[Commander 147]

Ebb
 
Do you have a link to the thread?

[ebb]

Well the address had one of those long specific thingies that in the past just don't seem to work.
So I just assume that googling will get you there,  tho not instantly:

google> Wiring diagram for an O/B - Boat Design Forums

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/electrical-systems/wiring-diagram-o-b-26855.html


[ EDIT: whaduyouno - it works!!!!!!!]

[Commander 147]

Thanks Ebb I will study it in detail tonight.

[ebb]

testing access diagram

http://suter.tripod.com/wiring/wiring.jpg

Have to get it by Google> Pearson Triton Wiring Diagram
From the 80's with upgrades.  For a Triton with a lot of support for an inboard.

I really liked the emphasis of the thread from boatdesign.net on the OB because that is my interest.
But I like best the changes others suggested that influenced and altered the plan and made it better - so far as I know.

Imagine a basic diagram aimed specifically at the Commander/Ariel sailboat.

BASICS
Starter battary
Deep Cycle Battery
Battery siwtch
Battery isolator
Outboard Starter
External Lights
Cabin Lights
Fuses/Circuit breakers
Single Pole switch
Cabin LED aft, fore, dome/blkhd, V-berth
Masthead light
Steaming
Flood
Port, Starboard, Stern lights.
Bilge pumps/Blower

12V inverter to 120V
120V shore power
120V receptacle

MORES
Battery charger
DC panel
Compass light
Fish finder/depth sounder
Knot meter/log
Engle fridge/builtin
Shower pump
Fresh water pump
ELECTRONICS
OB gauges, oil pressure, ammeter, voltmeter, fuel, temp. tach, starter-ignition switch.

EXTRAS
Air conditioner
Stereo, TV
Water maker.
Hot water


Lightning ground conductors. (Totally separate system)

Solar panels
Charge controller
Digital battery moniter.


Alright, how we do dis?

[Commander 147]

But being that Destiny is going to be an electric drive it will be unlike most Ariels and Commanders out there. My system will have one very large battery bank that outputs 48VDC and a DC/DC inverter that will step the 48V main system down to 12V for the house electric. In addition I will have a seperate 120VAC system that will be available for use when hooked up to shore power.

[ebb]

I've found a good exchange on an ericsonyachts.com site from late last year (current) that looks like a good lead in for litlgull.  
The guy gets good advise from the likes of Maine Sail and others on grounding, integrating a simple AC into the mix*, charging,  dedicating battery 'banks', and whether he should include an ACR or not.
Seems like a good place for me to make a good  start on........ THE PLAN.

Important in this thread   is that the progression of the discussion yields a progression of versions of the plan in diagrams with colored wire.  Which helps understand how wires are chosen, and where they end.  Discover for the first time that the DC ground on an OB boat is the battery negative terminal, not the OB or a bronze plate attached to the hull somewhere (that I fantasized.)  It's a place to start.

Also found a Basic Electricity manual on New Boat Builders Home Page that is easy to read, well written, not patronizing, well supported with links and advice.  The writer should be thanked with a name - and toasted,  
which will happen if this post lights up and becomes a thread in its own right.
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
*....and I quote Maine Sail
"AC White/Neutral goes back to shore through the shore power cable.
AC Green/Ground does not go back through the shore power cable. once on the boat, and is grounded on board the boat.  In this case to a neg buss bar which is connected to the battery neg terminal or directly to the battery's neg terminal because this is an 'ungrounded'  DC system at this point."
there you go, a demo of the dunno:confused:, and why I needs a plan.

[Commander 147]

ebb
 
I found a pretty good book on boat electrical systems. It's called Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook. written by Charlie Wing. Charlie writes in a manner that makes a rather complicated subject pretty easy to understand. I don't read many techincal books cover to cover but this one I probably will. I recommend it.

[jshisha]

I have the standard Nissan 6HP 4 stroke outboard.   What I have been doing after each use is to pull out the gas line and running the gas dry.   I use the outboard just to get in and out of the dock and it would not be unusual for the boat to sit for 2 weeks with no activity.

Is this the right thing to do or should I just shut the motor off and leave the gas line connected?

[Ariel 109]

jshisha

I think it's OK to run the motor dry, although likely unnecessary, it's not going to hurt anything.  Many aircraft motors are shut down by cutting the fuel supply.  

Ben

[carl291]

I would concur that running the system dry is best. Especially with Ethanol tainted fuel, when the engine will not be used for 14 days.

[SkipperJer]

I have a Johnson Seahorse 6hp motor which I remove from the well every time I leave the boat on its mooring.  I'm tiring of the time and effort involved in the mount/dismount routine. Most of my sailing lately has been to take guests out.  The delay is taking the fun out of the trip. Others in the Chesapeake area are warning me that leaving the motor in the water will result in the water intake becoming clogged and the motor overheating.  

I'd appreciate descriptions of other solutions that are working for Ariel/Commander owners whose boats are in warm brackish water such as the Chesapeake.  How close to inboard functionality can I get without risking engine damage? If I see a system that leaves the motor in the water for the entire season and has electric start I'll buy it.  Otherwise I'm considering selling this boat and looking for something with an inboard.  

Photos help.  I think in pictures.
Thanks.

[Crazer]

Eh, I don't know about the intake becoming clogged. I had, over the summer, a Sea Sprite 23 with a 5hp Evinrude (REAL old one) and I would routinely leave it for a month or so when I was moving it up the Hudson and through the Erie Canal. I never had a problem with overheating until I screwed up the oil mixture and toasted the engine. It's amazing how fast that can happen! I left the boat for six weeks in brackish water in Newburgh, NY and when I came back to it, the thing started right up and chugged along for another 200 or so miles. I did have to clean the prop and lower unit but the intake wasn't clogged and she pumped water fine. It's possible that you might get more growth in the Chesapeake but the conditions seem  similar to me. I dunno, I'd definitely get more opinions before you sell the boat. And certainly don't take mine as the gospel truth!

Out of curiosity, do you own an Ariel or a Commander? I know there was an Ariel in the DC area with a Seahorse Outboard that was for sale last spring. Red hull. Is she now yours?

[SkipperJer]

It's a Commander.

[jshisha]

I have the standard 4 stroke 6HP Nissan Mercury outboard.  I would like to mount a single lever engine throttle / control in the cockpit, but the standard controls are very plastic / modern looking and it would be like painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa.  Does anyone know of any classic looking chrome or bronze single lever controls that would work.   I am in a tight slip and it would be very helpful to have the controls

Thanks

Jake