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Silicon spray used to loosen a bolt or lube a track , silicon caulk around a leaking chain plate , silicon enriched paint sanded off and lots of airborne contaminates can be lurking about.
Could come off your clothes or from a leaking implant under a bikini.
A friend of mine had a custom body shop . He required everyone to wear Tyvek suits in the paint booth and all silicon had to be kept in the mechanical shop . With what he charged for a paint job , it better be perfect.

Since no one else has chirped in, I'm maybe good for some questions. Is there a contaminant that will make epoxy not stick? Like wax or silicone? What do you use when you create a mold to keep it ffrom sticking? Any chance some contaminants could have been introduced in either of your mixes that could keep the batch from adhering? (Where's Mike Goodwin when you need him?)

Been sick, recuring "jungle fever" from my days of 'wearing of the green' and we ain't talking Irish here , anyway fever is gone and I can stay awake for more than 2 hours now.

Yes, silicone and epoxy do not mix , also wax , and the epoxy itself can blush and cause it not to adhere. When making a mold, you use a mold release agent , which is a wax and/or a latex liquid release agent or parting agent .

Hint, don't wipe down with acetone, use pure white vinegar then denatured alcohol , I have seen acetone 'soften' resins . Or use Prepsol or a mix made for glass prepping . And use a hell of a lot of rags , if you see something on the rag , it is contaminated, CHANGE IT ! or you are just spreading it around .

It was roller reefing and it wasn't nearly as good as a tied in reef .
A roller furling main rolls up vertical behind or into the mast and costs more than a fully found Ariel on average .

Yeah and "floors" are not what you walk on , but they hold the frames (ribs) together and attach them to the keel .
Every pair of frames has a floor , these are bronze , the ones way aft are wood.

Pipe is stronger than tubing and heavier .

With so much sail behind the mast you tend to over trim the main to keep it from back winding .An overtrimed main will give weather helm  every time . We have found it better to ease the main car to leeward sheet in hard and sail with a bubble and drive off the genny . The original main sheet setup wont allow this .

According to motor people ,those that fix them and sell them, if your transom is 15" off the water then get a 15 , 20 a 20 and 25 a 25 . They say it is not good to put a 25" shaft on a 15" transom . A 20 comes closest to fitting these boats .

Not my words , my mechanic's .

20" fits the boat and keeps the prop in the water.

What were you doing on a Hunter ?

Saw the same thing on Bluenose II foremast .

The plates should be bent or the holes should be drilled not square to the surface so the entire clevis pin is taking the load and not just the inner edge .
In other words , if you don't bend them the rig will try to bend them itself trying to even the load  . It also puts more stress on the inboard end of the clevis and will eventually wear more. It can also stress the lower fork of the turnbuckle or bottlescrew if you are a Brit.

All of the finer sailing yachts I have worked on and sailed on , had the chainplates bent , with the exception of the uppers when the spreaders were wide enough to get the shroud tangent with the tang .

You always want to be tangent with the tang!

Actually that is traditionally called a ceiling or ceiling planking when installed in a wooden boat. Gives extra strength to the hull and protects the frames and hull planking from damage from within, like if something got loose in the hold.
On the 122' schooner I just worked on , we installed 2 1/2" thick ceiling planks.

In the photo , the lower of the three is the first of the ceiling planks, above that is the sheer clamp and above that is the beam shelf. The deck beams are fitted into and on the baem shelf.

Put the tiller hard over to one side and you should see the screws that holds the rudder to the shaft. Remove with care the upper section and the rudder should lift right off.

6 hp. Nissan fits with ease and drives the boat to hull speed, weighs in at 50lbs or so.

#45 went to Bermuda and back solo from Chesapeake Bay back in the 90's .
I did it in  Columbia 28 in the 70's , double handed.

To me , backing control is the weakest point of the boats . So I just docked facing in and backed out in a circle ( looked intentional too ) It was a common design flaw from the '60s for many boats.