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We have lowered the price of our boat to $6500.
We want to remind everyone that this is not a project boat at all. It is ready to sail. It's in great condition and eagerly looking for a new home.

All new wiring harness

Bow Pulpit! 60s style!

Stereo/CD Player

Windows and cabin light

Cabin Interior

Electrical Panel/Fuse Box

Hey Pearson Folks!
Thanks for all your help for the last three years. We are now selling our beloved sailboat.
1965 Pearson Commander 25, #155 (Located in Brisbane, CA)
   $9400
Meticulously restored interior. Nicely maintained exterior. Almost $20,000 invested. Over 400 man-hours invested!
-New Nissan 6 HP
-New Jib, 100% (Hogan Sails)
-New Interior Cushions
-New Stereo/CD Player
-New Bow Pulpit
-All new re-wiring (every fuse/connector replaced better than factory placed wiring)
-Interior entirely stripped, & repainted
-Original Teak floor restored, re-varnished
-All Teak trim restored, re-varnished
-All interior fastener replaced w/stainless steel
-New cabin lights to match stock design
-Restored Battery box w/new battery
-All new running rigging (Everything, halyards, sheets, etc.)
-New turnbuckles
-New solar powered vent
-New #16 Anderson winches (x2)
-New deck hardware, all lines leading aft
-New Schaeffer Lazy jacks
-New fenders
-New West Marine cockpit cushions
-New hatch seals
-New Lexan windows
-Newly refurbished window frames, polished & anodized

Quick Specs: 25.5' LOA. 8 ' beam. 3'8" draft. 5100 lbs. 9-foot cockpit. Fully-enclosed lead full keel.

So much more, too much to list, call Anthony for details, 415-823-4521

go for the link! It looks the most purpose built.  Let us know what happens.  Can you turn the meter off? So you don't slowly  Drain the batteries while checking it?

Of Course ours is #155, commander

Hi fellow sailoirs!
I would like to preface my current question with a enormous "thank you"  to everyone who has taken the time to answer all of our previous questions!

Well, I was wondering if anyone out there knows how to figure out how old your boat is? We're not sure if our boat is from '64, '65', or '66.  We were just wondering for insurance purposes and undying curiosity.

Thank you, Anthony and Sabrina

ebb,

I think you bring up very good points.  

In my particular example and I don't believe that the  original Pearson wiring was designed for lightning.  

My commander is  completely stock, with no toilet plumbing or any other through holes except for the drains in the cockpit.  

The only thing I have are wires running from the aft chain plates to the negative bus bar.  Thus far, I have come up with the following reasons for these wires:

 1.  They were put in every ariel/Commander and were perhaps  necessary on more complex versions of the boat such as internal engines and such. ( For corrosion protection?) But on my stripped-down version, they are completely unnecessary?  

 2.  the wiring was designed to somehow reduce corrosion from the chainplates?  perhaps the original designers felt this was important? But it adds a further question, why were only the rear chain plates grounded/bonded? and shouldn't bonding be only required on underwater components, not shrouds and chain plates?

 3.  This was some sort of attempt at a lightning protection system? But this would not make any sense either because the wires terminate at the negative bus bar which runs to the battery only? Making this a very unlikely scenario.  

Are there any other reasons that anyone can think of why these wires would exist? So far I think that number 1 is the most likely  reason.  and if this is the case it would seem that I could remove these wires.  

Any thoughts? Does anyone else's but have the similar wiring configuration? My ground wire was a 10guage  green wire.

Hi Everyone,

We had an electrician check out our wirng/electrical system today because we have recently been re-wiring the entire boat. The elctrician told us that we don't need the ground/bonded wire, the wire that connects to the chainplate from the negative bus. He said we don't need it because we don't have any metal under water and we were wondering if that was for sure true?

Thanks for input!
-Anthony/Bina

Thank you everyone for addressing our concerns.
I guess I did not state my question clearly though. Our real concern is when the fairlead leads the line down to the wench, there is a lot of over-ride. So, because of this, we are using the wench that we ourselves have placed on the cabintop (even though truly we need this wench for other running rigging). So, the problem is not from the sail to the fairlead, but from the fairlead to the wench. Why would the factory install a set-up like this with the wench and fairlead and how do we fix it?
Thank you, Commander #155

We wanted to find out why our jib lead is on top of the cabin. Anyone out there know why?...When the jib lead is on top of the cabin, it cannot directly lead to the winch on the coaming board. Instead, it over-rides! Is anyone out there using the original set-up? If so, how are they implementing it? Or does eveyone simply mount their tracks on the deck?
Two curious sailors, Anthony & Sabrina