Cabin Sole Refinishing

[Commander 147]

You know Ebb, currently until something comes along to change my mind I'm leaning towards the epoxy sealer and then a satin polyureathane with high UV resistance maybe like the one in this link.
 
http://www.lancopaints.com/english/products/3.1_poly_fin.html
 
When I think about how many times I have sailed on my friend's Tartan 3000 and his cabin sole looks like it was just polyureathaned on the top surface to a smooth level surface and I have not had a slipping problem ever on his his boat, I wonder if I'm just over thinking the whole thing. I'm prone to that.

[Ariel 109]

When I think about how many times I have sailed on my friend's Tartan 3000 and his cabin sole looks like it was just polyureathaned on the top surface to a smooth level surface and I have not had a slipping problem ever on his his boat, I wonder if I'm just over thinking the whole thing. I'm prone to that.

Topsiders are also helpful and in fashion for the moment.

[Commander 147]

Topsiders are also helpful and in fashion for the moment.

And that may be why I have never had a problem. I almost always where boat specific shoes.

[Commander 147]

Well Daniel sent me a reply about the UV, here it is...
 
Hello Jerry,

Thanks for sending your thorough review of our conversation.

I checked our company information about UV resistance. We have not had the product
tested in independent lab for this feature, and therefore we are not making
any advertising claims in this respect. From my experience, I have not seen
SKID SAFE being affected by Sun in any way, even after 8+ years of exposure
to it.

Your application is very specific, and if UV resistance is not as good,
as I know it is, then there would be expensive process to fix the damage
Since we have no proof of this resistance from independent lab
I do not recommend SKID SAFE for your application. We do not want
to be responsible for any possible damage to your expensive underlying material.

Best regards,

[ebb]

Think it VERY suspicious that UV resistance is not included in company lit.
Daniel's recommendation NOT to use the stuff in our app is the best advise yet.
Sorry I started something.
Feel a little like Kramer bursting into a room unprepared.
When we look into a product, often the most telling thing about it
is what is left out.

[Commander 147]

Don't feel sorry Ebb, you were just trying to search out a solution for a question that I had. And I appreciate you taking time to help me find a solution. Sometimes it just takes a bit of detective work to get to the bottom of things. This was just one of those cases.

[ebb]

(this double dipped, have no idea why)

[ebb]

Advertise high UV protection, marine and offshore apps, in a water clear anti-skid hybrid coating.
They have data sheets for Clear coat antiskid but
 could not find any aggregate additive mentioned.
Anti-skid without aggregate?  - so I left it hang for now
And if interested there is always the problem of finding the stuff, and finding it at a decent price and small quantity.  All that.

I don't think its available in stores and is very expensive.  To hell with it!
Be my guest.:rolleyes:


A basic primer on the no-skid subject that also discusses the viscosities of  coatings in relation to grit is at
google> non-skid coatings - Progressive Epoxy Polymers, Inc
//www.epoxyproducts.com
This is a unique website and takes some getting used to - so persist!
While Paul Oman generously gives us the basics ('Anti Slip Primer'), the info does not go specifically into clear coatings.  But it's really good on what to expect from aggregate and has tips for apps.
The anti-slip problem we have is still open for experimentation.  (Who's going to do that?)
Walnut shell in various sieve sizes is imco the best for enamels,  it's permanent but can be sanded away.

Clear coats on fancy teak or mahogany and what aggregate to use is another story.
 We have the folks above who chose white aluminum oxide.
But there are other blasting media that I haven't seen used like glass beads and acrylic plastic grit that might be removed fairly easy if wanted.

However, here's an idea. another approach for us using the Epoxy Plywood Encapsulate Technique (EPET),
would be to conservatively, not too much, you want to see the wood, sprinkle our aggregate of choice into the last epoxy coat of the prep series
and top it off with the finish coat varnish or acrylic or polyurethane to get that last inch of shine.  Let the epoxy do the dirty work in other words.
Control  aggressive grit with finish coats.  Add to soften.
Paul, on his epoxyproducts site above warns us to Never, Never, Never use sand!
Have to think how you will approach refinishing the cabin sole or the cockpit deck,
if you can't sand the grit off, scraping is the ony way - besides using a stripper.



______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I've beem amazed at how often those outside the discipline of design assume that what designers do is decoration.
Good design is problem solving - Jeffery Veen

[ebb]

Hey Jerry, looks like I missed your blueline on
lancopaints.

The Marine (100% !!!!! UV resistant) Marinethane looks very interesting indeed.

It may be one the new breed of exterior coatings that don't use darkening UV inhibitors.

Looking at the data sheet: put on 4mils coating - drys to 2mils.
There's about 50% solvents in the stuff - which you pay for, and disappears.
Imco you should not apply this inside unless wearing a direct airflow mask.

Don't know-bout-no-stinkun-shoes - my antiskid test is the barefoot slip test.