Commander 227

[Commander227]

Commander 227
 
Do you have any idea how much electricity you can generate with the Sevcon PMAC 48 volt controller setup?
 
I was unable to find the Curtis WD-45 throttle you mentioned. I found a WP-45 but it only works up to 30 volts.
 
Have you given any thought to where you will locate the batteries?
 
Will you use a folding prop or a fixed prop to maximise regenerating capability?
 
 So when you have completed your repower I would like very much to fly up to see your setup. Would you be willing to show it off to me?

  I really do not yet have a handle on the regen capabilities. There are so many variables such as prop slippage, prop size and come in speed. I think I'll just have to play with the programming once the system is installed. A few sites selling similar systems claim to be able to regen while at anchor in a current. I don't think I would want it to come online and start inducing drag until I was near hull speed, but I'll have easy charging in my slip.

  My mistake... it is the WP-45. Keep in mind it is not using the full line voltage, just the 10.5v controller circuit voltage. Anyway I'm off the WP-45.  The Harbor 20 uses a Motorguide electric motor set up and has a very neat key switch and throttle in a nice recessed pan that will mount flush. It is 5-0-5 K ohms, it does not have any feel or neutral detent, but I've found it to work great the few times I've sailed a harbor 20. I just ordered the pictured set up from Schock.

  Batteries will be kept as low and close to the C/G as possible. I had to place a couple of sand bags in my anchor rode compartment this summer to balance the 9.9 O.B. Before haul out I pulled the O.B. and the sand bags and the boat still rode bow high and took almost 100# to level out the boat. Being the I.B. motor will sit about 6' aft of the C/G, I know I'll need at least 2 batts well forward. I will not build the battery boxes until all systems are in place and I can float the boat to get the balance right.

  A folding prop will not work with the relief cut into the keel and rudder. I am debating on 2 blade vs. 3 blade. If I use a 2 blade I can mark the shaft and pin it inline with the keel when racing, but it sure is nice to have that 3 blade bite when you are accelerating or stopping. I'm on vacation next week and have Dave Garr's "Propeller Handbook" for my beach reading.

  I'd love to show it off if it works and I don't end up pulling it all back out and hauling it to the scrap yard.

[Commander 147]

Here's hoping it all works and you get the opportunity to show off your handiwork. I'm VERY interested in your progress on this mod. and the inclosed head project. The electric drive for me and the enclosed head for my admiral
 
Please keep us informed on your progress for all of your mods.

[Chance]

Michael,
    Received the parcel this evening. Thank you kindly for your assistance in my efforts to bring "Ceili" back to life.  If you ever venture down to this area, please give me a shout, your welcome to stay with us.

[Bill]

SolidNav has a line of electric motors for boats.  Svend's in Alameda, CA has the "Traveler" model on display . . . an outboard.  Stats in the owner's manual indicate an equivalent 4-hp from 3.0 kw.  Here's the pitch:

"SolidNav proudly announces a real electric option for sailboats without an existing inboard, pontoon boats and for small craft that require reliable outboard performance. Our long shaft and remote engine controls make docking enjoyable without the dread of lethal oil sheens and clouds of foul smelling fumes. Actual outboard construction and solid frame construction position the traveler as the only choice for real world applications.

$2,499*"

http://www.solidnav.com/traveler.html

From my limited observation, the shaft and head should fit in the A-C well.  Not sure, however, about the clearance distance from the aft bulkhead in the lazarette, as I did not have access to a measuring device.

[Commander227]

Bill,
I believe this has the same electric motor as I am planning to install as an Inboard, the Mars PMAC. the controller is smaller (150 amp) than I am planning on using (250 amp) . I have seen similar models that have the Mars motor bolted to the Tohatsu 6hp lower unit and cowl. The SolidNav Explorer model is also the same motor with a smaller controller as the ThunderStruck kit and is a neat little package, but over $3.000. more expensive.

[ebb]

For me there has to be more than a web site and hype to become interested in an electric outboard.  There is no spread to their presentation.  Curious lack of testimonial, photo and video support.  This being a three years in development American product where are the long legs, installation and spray shots?  Where's the action?

At least the price is comparable to gas OBs.  How about the wear and tear.
How about a demo on a particular market target sailboat?  Weight issue (batteries) might keep the motor out of the race crowd.  It's not for extended cruising unless you can make juice as you use it.  I'd like to see it demoed in more water than marina parking.

It's unavoidable that the electric OB will be compared to the gas OB on more than the green factor and the price.  
You have to incude the dedicated battery bank in the cost comparison.  The battery issue, weight and room and CHARGING, has to be addressed realistically by the company. imco

Or do we have to wait for Practical Sailor to rate it?
(Practical Sailor now features unrated untested new products.  Being a cynic - and certain there must be hundreds of new products coming on market every week - I wonder if the featured manufacturer is paying a fee for the privilege of the exposure.  It's good to know of new products but not with an implied approval stamp from a product testing "we take no advertising" magazine.)  P.S. should be doing a comparison test soon.

There needs to be third party feedback.

[Commander227]

I didn't have much time for the old girl in Nov., but started the planning process and started ordering and receiving the parts for the electric inboard.

Pic #1 Rudder removed to cut prop aperture.
Pic #2 Hull prop aperture plug.
pic #3 bottom after a long session with the pressure washer.
pic #4 The soon to be plugged outboard well.

[Commander227]

Pic #1 Lip of aft lazerette cut off and the new plywood lazerette sole ready   to glass in.

Pic #2 Prop aperture opened up and outboard well being closed.

Pic #3 bottom almost ready for the barrier coat.
 
Pic #4 boy... it really does not take very long to remove any value a 40 year old boat may have had. How much do you think shes worth now as she sits?

Pic #5 Webs and compression post cut away to make way for the header and full bulkheads.

[Commander 147]

Commander 227 can you post some close up pictures of the keel where you cut out for the prop and both ends of the prop shaft tube? I'm very interested in seeing what that area looks like.
 
Have you decided on all of the components for the elec. drive yet? I assume you are still going with the Mars brushless motor, Sevcon PMAC 48 volt controller, Sevcon DC/DC converter to power the boat's 12 volt systems. And what about the charging system? Do you plan to incorporate solar cells or wind generator to help with charging or will you use just shore power. If shore power what charger are you using? Did you decide on a throttle mechanisim?

[Commander227]

Pic#1.  White oak header and upper bulkheads glassed in. (Wow, did the boys @ Pearson know how to make Formica stick to bulkheads!! It took forever to chip that stuff off.)
Pic#2&3.  Pretty bulkheads ready to glass in.
Pic#4. Bored hole in keel for stern tube.
Pic#5. Outboard well glassed on inside.

[Commander227]

The goodies are starting to arrive!
Pic # 1. (clockwise) 15a, 48v electronic charger, Mars motor, Contactor switch, Sevcon Millipak controller, 200a fuse and 48v-12v converter.
pic #2.  Shaft log, G-10 for a stern tube and timing belt pulleys for the reduction drive.

[mbowman]

Great progress! Looks like you have a good, large garage to work in also. I have an Ariel and am also looking at putting in a door to the V-birth, head area. I take out a lot of couples and the head issue is always ... well an issue. currently I have a port-a-potty with no door. Before this spring I hope to put in a door... I'm thinking about a "vented" door that swings into the main cabin. Maybe a 6" opening at the top and bottom (a little more than a half door) for ventilation.   Has anyone had any luck with this?

[Vines]

I don't suppose there is any chance you still have the hatch cover, huh? I could sure use it. C229 has an old home-made one that doesn't look too great, but it doesn't look too bad either. I assume the fiberglass one is original. That is why I am interested in it. I believe there is very little on this boat that isn't original.

[Commander227]

I've been saving it just for you!!! PM me your address and I'll send it your way.

[Vines]

BTW, IDK what PM is, LOL.