Sea Sprite 23 #670 "Heritage"

[Chance]

Thank you Ebb.
    I'll look into Tonk as an option.
 
When the fastener heads are visible, I like to "Clock" the heads. That is, to ensure that the slots align with one another and are in keeping with the symmetry, in this case they were aligned athwartship. Perhaps a trivial detail to some, but for those that are keen on attention to details, I think it matters, plus it looks nicer.
 
Here's today's shots:

[ebb]

ATTENTION!  IT's in the details.  It's no accident!
And it's  thumbs up to later craftsmen who see what others miss - and whistle because they knows it means a job well done.  Didn't know the expression, until now, thanks!


[Just happened to flash on MaineSail's Book of Better Butyl Booping -
and I'm not going to go look the article up this moment - assume that everybody's seen it -
but THERE is one gent who believes in DETAIL......
You know, it's where he's showing  us in Jiminy Cricket  eyeball  photo close ups  exactly how to load up a flatheadmachinescew to make butyl work when putting stuff together for the long term....  deck fastenings, new windows, trim.

But can't recall if his attention to detail soldiered up screw slots and the flats of hex nuts on  cabin ports and stanchion bases? -
I think I wood have noticed!

SO, from now on I'm gonna have to check out  Whozit's philips  heads to see if they are clocked in Xs or +s ! ! !:D

[paulsproesser]

Porter,
   Thank you for the font ID. I am placing an order for her new registration numbers.
 
Paul,
    Your skills and refinishing are remarkable.  Like you, I selected Epifanes Clear Varnish for my bright work.  As for the weathered toe rail and coamings, I'm undecided as to what I'll do. A concern I have is sanding them down to achieve an acceptable starting point for the varnish. The wood has already been sanded down, who knows how many times, and fear that my attempt could result in bungs being displaced.  Additionally I have no experience in how to bring back older, weathered teak to an acceptable starting point, and am not too keen on experimenting with her teak, that is currently in sound, albeit a slight unsightly, condition.

When I Started with my coamings I pressure washed them which cleaned the rite up and brought back the woods natural color without sanding at all and due to the fact you can't keep all that teak covered I would oil it.