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#91
Gallery / C-025 Bisquit
Last post by Lucky Dawg - May 24, 2022, 03:21:27 PMIf your old rudder is perfectly fine, as you mentioned, would you be interested in selling it to me?? Lucky Dawg is in need!
Kyle
Kyle
#92
Technical / Course Correction
Last post by Bisquit - May 15, 2022, 07:34:34 PMCourse Correction
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this started to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
On the boat
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
Bottom Painted and ready to go
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this started to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
On the boat
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
Bottom Painted and ready to go
#93
Gallery / C-025 Bisquit
Last post by Bisquit - May 15, 2022, 06:30:07 PMCourse Correction
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this stared to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220406_160419-copy-1.jpg
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220412_181048.jpg
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_112754-1-copy-1.jpg
On the boat
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_130151-copy-1.jpg
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220419_142029.jpg
Bottom Painted and ready to go
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this stared to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220406_160419-copy-1.jpg
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220412_181048.jpg
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_112754-1-copy-1.jpg
On the boat
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_130151-copy-1.jpg
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220419_142029.jpg
Bottom Painted and ready to go
#94
Gallery / Ariel 322 (at last)
Last post by CapnK - April 29, 2022, 03:28:07 PMThe CL listing has been deleted. What happened? Let's hope she found a home!!! No Ariel should ever be scrapped, they're the prettiest of all Carl's wonderful designs... My girl Katie has, in her time with me, sat in slips right next to Tritons, an A-30 or 2, a A-35, and even Cape Dorys, and her lines edged them all out.
#95
Gallery / Ariel 322 (at last)
Last post by Fox - April 17, 2022, 07:01:18 PMBumping my very old thread because I need your help. I sold my Ariel over a decade ago, but it seems she has fallen on hard times since I had her. I recently found her on craigslist as a free boat in disrepair. The add mentions scrapping her. I would really hate for this to happen, I lived aboard for a summer and at the time my dream was to sail the world in her. It really kills me to think of my d boat being cut up. I am not in a place to save her, but maybe someone here can? I have attached a link to the Craigslist add and I will reach out to her current owner saying I have posted this. She was a good boat and does not deserve this fate. Thank you guys and happy sailing. https://nh.craigslist.org/boa/d/alton-free-1966-pearson-saiboat-26ft/7457631123.html
#96
General/Off-Topic / Ariel 97 for sale
Last post by carbonsoup - March 17, 2022, 12:01:31 PMWith a heavy heart, I must pass on Ariel #97 to another. I had originally purchased the boat and sailed it while my mother recovered from a SAH stroke in Washington DC. But, as thing happens, I engulfed myself in the huge project of retrofitting the entire boat. Well, six years later and it is not finished. I had made tremendous progress the first two years, nearly completing it. However, the boat has sat for a long while in my shop waiting, and waiting, and waiting… for me to return.
Quite frankly I have barely touched it these last couple years, as a matter of fact I may have added a couple more projects…
The retrofit, list, in no particular order:
1. Interior completely deleted and replaced with a unique design suitable for two to cruise Maine to the Bahamas. all interior plywood Okume BS1088 marine grade plywood. Sleeping for 4 (1 bunk under cockpit, large double in main salon, 1 bunk in bow) 85% complete
2. Retrofitted Four-Winns trailer motor boat trailer (2 axle w/disk brakes and pivoting tongue) 100% complete
3. Custom electric drive mount w/ 8.5K electric motor (complete electric motor kit has been mounted and test fit, but never tested/run), 75%
4. new PPY no drip drive shaft, 100%
5. new cutlas bearing, 100%
6. hull/deck seam fiberglassed, 100%
7. deck recored (previous owner), 100%
8. new stainless steel prop shaft, 100%
9. 3 blade (12x) prop, 100%
10. new main 4:1 sheet w/curved main sheet traveler, ready for mount
11. curved jib sheet tracks, ready for mount
12. rudder, completely new w/original bronze tiller shaft. needs final fiber and fairing. 90%
13. main sail, brand new (used a dozen times) Beacon Sails in Annapolis
14. hull mounted chain plates (interior), 90%
Extras:
1. I started designing / fabricating a bowsprit (18”) from 316 Stainless steel to help with the weather helm.
2.
What she needs:
1. rebuild cockpit coamings. I have 5/4 mahogany planks ready with pattern.
2. complete wiring, including electric drive integration and batteries.
3. needs all new lighting
4. electric drive testing
5. Remounting of all the original hardware
6. A name
Needs
1. The boat needs top side paint and deck painted.
Boat exterior has been sanded, faired and barrier coated.
2. interior cabinets needs to be finished, hardware installed and painted.
How much:
1. 7,000. (not including all the new build material or labor- just new unused parts: trailer 5-7k, main sail 1.5k, electric motor kit 2k)
2. I might be interested in partnerships…. if someone had some motivation and the ability to buy 50% stake in the project
for a quick response and direct contact info; 415-225-6177
thanks, matt
***google drive link for construction info and photos.***
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...vh?usp=sharing
Quite frankly I have barely touched it these last couple years, as a matter of fact I may have added a couple more projects…
The retrofit, list, in no particular order:
1. Interior completely deleted and replaced with a unique design suitable for two to cruise Maine to the Bahamas. all interior plywood Okume BS1088 marine grade plywood. Sleeping for 4 (1 bunk under cockpit, large double in main salon, 1 bunk in bow) 85% complete
2. Retrofitted Four-Winns trailer motor boat trailer (2 axle w/disk brakes and pivoting tongue) 100% complete
3. Custom electric drive mount w/ 8.5K electric motor (complete electric motor kit has been mounted and test fit, but never tested/run), 75%
4. new PPY no drip drive shaft, 100%
5. new cutlas bearing, 100%
6. hull/deck seam fiberglassed, 100%
7. deck recored (previous owner), 100%
8. new stainless steel prop shaft, 100%
9. 3 blade (12x) prop, 100%
10. new main 4:1 sheet w/curved main sheet traveler, ready for mount
11. curved jib sheet tracks, ready for mount
12. rudder, completely new w/original bronze tiller shaft. needs final fiber and fairing. 90%
13. main sail, brand new (used a dozen times) Beacon Sails in Annapolis
14. hull mounted chain plates (interior), 90%
Extras:
1. I started designing / fabricating a bowsprit (18”) from 316 Stainless steel to help with the weather helm.
2.
What she needs:
1. rebuild cockpit coamings. I have 5/4 mahogany planks ready with pattern.
2. complete wiring, including electric drive integration and batteries.
3. needs all new lighting
4. electric drive testing
5. Remounting of all the original hardware
6. A name
Needs
1. The boat needs top side paint and deck painted.
Boat exterior has been sanded, faired and barrier coated.
2. interior cabinets needs to be finished, hardware installed and painted.
How much:
1. 7,000. (not including all the new build material or labor- just new unused parts: trailer 5-7k, main sail 1.5k, electric motor kit 2k)
2. I might be interested in partnerships…. if someone had some motivation and the ability to buy 50% stake in the project
for a quick response and direct contact info; 415-225-6177
thanks, matt
***google drive link for construction info and photos.***
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...vh?usp=sharing
#97
Gallery / EBB's PHOTO GALLERY THREAD
Last post by ebb - February 14, 2022, 11:53:44 AMTHANKS BILL !!
Large image is a bit much. Wasn't planned. But Ray was exchanging emails.
I all along after absorbing the shock of first seeing the hollow letters, still was
suggesting more airyness in the spread of the letters, and by the fourth try
this is what appeared -- as large.
Ray had pasted the first samples on an image of the starboard side of the
boat -- this one only shows the sheer rub rail. It does mean that the name
will be rather large to my eye, as I wasn't ready for this, not having fully
imagined it.
Still not sure if I'm ready for the boat name to be plastered all over the hull
like a freighter.. if Little Gull was wood, name and port would never have escaped
the transom. And like the port of call, all block upper-case letters devoid of air,
stiff and proper like sailors on muster.
But I almost immediately accepted the relaxed hollow letters, and their cartoony
casual nature.
Realize the contraction of little into lit (e)l will upset some, altho argument has
little weight given what has happened to language since the advent of the
personal computer.
The 'g' is now the fulcrum of some stems of balanced font shapes that might be
seen on a poster or book cover. To me the play is restrained enuf, it might
be controversial but it's contemporary.
Supple translation of the contracted name: litlgull with Ray's careful choreography
or spread of the individual letters is lit (e)l gull.. .. .. all instantly readable..
Kind of like arguing whether the letter x is a necessary letter in the alphabet!
It ain't serious it's for fun. Given Ray, to translate onto vinyl, another bird lozenge
more realistic less outlined. Crazy weather, everything seems half fast.
Large image is a bit much. Wasn't planned. But Ray was exchanging emails.
I all along after absorbing the shock of first seeing the hollow letters, still was
suggesting more airyness in the spread of the letters, and by the fourth try
this is what appeared -- as large.
Ray had pasted the first samples on an image of the starboard side of the
boat -- this one only shows the sheer rub rail. It does mean that the name
will be rather large to my eye, as I wasn't ready for this, not having fully
imagined it.
Still not sure if I'm ready for the boat name to be plastered all over the hull
like a freighter.. if Little Gull was wood, name and port would never have escaped
the transom. And like the port of call, all block upper-case letters devoid of air,
stiff and proper like sailors on muster.
But I almost immediately accepted the relaxed hollow letters, and their cartoony
casual nature.
Realize the contraction of little into lit (e)l will upset some, altho argument has
little weight given what has happened to language since the advent of the
personal computer.
The 'g' is now the fulcrum of some stems of balanced font shapes that might be
seen on a poster or book cover. To me the play is restrained enuf, it might
be controversial but it's contemporary.
Supple translation of the contracted name: litlgull with Ray's careful choreography
or spread of the individual letters is lit (e)l gull.. .. .. all instantly readable..
Kind of like arguing whether the letter x is a necessary letter in the alphabet!
It ain't serious it's for fun. Given Ray, to translate onto vinyl, another bird lozenge
more realistic less outlined. Crazy weather, everything seems half fast.
#98
Gallery / Transom signage
Last post by Bill - February 11, 2022, 10:20:27 PMLetters and LarusMinutas are 8-10" and will be applied to the hull just under the rub rail at the sheer in the region of the cockpit. Ray Balanger Apache Signs is the inspiration for the font, my art is blatant borrowing, Ebb contributed some arrangement. Ray is the genius. Port of Call for documentation will be San Francisco CA in 4" letters across the top of the transom.
#99
General/Off-Topic / Welcome 2022
Last post by ebb - February 11, 2022, 03:45:41 PMBest to us who remain here. Just learned PAA was hacked a while back
and the premises here are in lockdown.. no newbies are able to join. But
I'm not sure why. The site here is in a virtual Covid lockdown. It's
depressing to enjoy this incredible planet with thugs and spoilers for
whom all forms of violence is the truth.
May this year be buttery for you!
and the premises here are in lockdown.. no newbies are able to join. But
I'm not sure why. The site here is in a virtual Covid lockdown. It's
depressing to enjoy this incredible planet with thugs and spoilers for
whom all forms of violence is the truth.
May this year be buttery for you!
