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#81
Gallery / C-025 Bisquit
Last post by CapnK - June 28, 2022, 09:43:09 AMVery nice work, it does indeed look as if it could be OEM Alberg/Pearson. 
#82
General/Off-Topic / FS set of pineapple sails for ...
Last post by Scott Galloway - June 09, 2022, 01:39:01 PMSOLD: I had a set of Pineapple sails for sale. They were built by Pineapple Sails for a Pearson Ariel owner who later sold off his excess sail inventory before selling his boat. I purchased the main and jib and had Pineapple Sails look them over. These sails have been lightly used and are in very good condition.There are very stiff racing sails. They need to be rolled when stored. I have sail bags for both sails. I will take the best offer that I receive for the main and jib sold together as a set. THESE SAILS WERE SOLF TO ANOTHER ARIEL OWNER ON JUNE 18, 2022.
Scott
Scott Galloway
Ariel 330
Scott
Scott Galloway
Ariel 330
#83
Technical / Need Advice for Replacing and/...
Last post by Bill - June 06, 2022, 09:44:38 PMHi Kevin,
Bill forwarded your question about Ariel drive shafts to me. I have a 1965 Ariel with a now not working Atomic 4. Several years ago, when the A4 was still working, I had a serious stuffing box leak while the Ariel was in the Sacramento Delta. The stuffing box problem could not be corrected in the Delta. I had the Ariel moved back down to the bay and KKMI, Richmond fixed the problem.
KKMI replaced the stuffing box with a PSS Shaft Seal (//www.shaftseal.com). In the three years or so that the A4 was still running the Shaft Seal performed perfectly. They are not inexpensive ($300 or so plus labor).
( Missing graphic -- PYI Inc. | PSS Shaft Seal)
Given my year-plus of lost sailing time and the expense, I would not be inclined to make changes to a drive shaft/stuffing box system that could be avoided. Not broken….. etc.
Wish you well—good sailing,
Kent Smith
Cloud 9 (388)
Bill forwarded your question about Ariel drive shafts to me. I have a 1965 Ariel with a now not working Atomic 4. Several years ago, when the A4 was still working, I had a serious stuffing box leak while the Ariel was in the Sacramento Delta. The stuffing box problem could not be corrected in the Delta. I had the Ariel moved back down to the bay and KKMI, Richmond fixed the problem.
KKMI replaced the stuffing box with a PSS Shaft Seal (//www.shaftseal.com). In the three years or so that the A4 was still running the Shaft Seal performed perfectly. They are not inexpensive ($300 or so plus labor).
( Missing graphic -- PYI Inc. | PSS Shaft Seal)
Given my year-plus of lost sailing time and the expense, I would not be inclined to make changes to a drive shaft/stuffing box system that could be avoided. Not broken….. etc.
Wish you well—good sailing,
Kent Smith
Cloud 9 (388)
#84
Technical / Need Advice for Replacing and/...
Last post by prooftheorist - June 06, 2022, 02:33:50 PMAlso, does anyone know if the Atomic 4 30HP fits into the Ariel? I know it fits into the Triton, and I believe they have identical companionways....
Thank you,
Kevin
Thank you,
Kevin
#85
Technical / Need Advice for Replacing and/...
Last post by prooftheorist - June 04, 2022, 05:07:17 PMI have a 1962 Pearson Ariel, and the original drive shaft is still in place, although the Atomic 4 was removed decades ago. I have owned her for 10 years, and use an outboard in the well. The shaft still spins (at low hand speed) and does not leak (if so slower than evaporation), but I never attempt to spin if she is not on the hard.
For my next haul out, I want to replace or refurbish the whole kit including bearings. I am interested in info about the specs of the original prop as well.
1) Do any captains know if there is a Kit for Ariel Prop Shaft with seals and bearings?
2) Do any captains know the specs of original prop shaft and prop for 1962?
3) I do not want to remove it and seal it....working on a step by step repower.
Thank you for any advice or direction!
Kevin
For my next haul out, I want to replace or refurbish the whole kit including bearings. I am interested in info about the specs of the original prop as well.
1) Do any captains know if there is a Kit for Ariel Prop Shaft with seals and bearings?
2) Do any captains know the specs of original prop shaft and prop for 1962?
3) I do not want to remove it and seal it....working on a step by step repower.
Thank you for any advice or direction!
Kevin
#86
Gallery / C-025 Bisquit
Last post by Lucky Dawg - May 24, 2022, 03:21:27 PMIf your old rudder is perfectly fine, as you mentioned, would you be interested in selling it to me?? Lucky Dawg is in need!
Kyle
Kyle
#87
Technical / Course Correction
Last post by Bisquit - May 15, 2022, 07:34:34 PMCourse Correction
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this started to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
On the boat
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
Bottom Painted and ready to go
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this started to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
On the boat
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
Bottom Painted and ready to go
#88
Gallery / C-025 Bisquit
Last post by Bisquit - May 15, 2022, 06:30:07 PMCourse Correction
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this stared to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220406_160419-copy-1.jpg
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220412_181048.jpg
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_112754-1-copy-1.jpg
On the boat
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_130151-copy-1.jpg
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220419_142029.jpg
Bottom Painted and ready to go
I decided to make a new rudder. The old rudder was perfectly fine however, the aperture was too small for the feathering prop I wanted to install. Also, I felt too much correction with the rudder was necessary in moderate to heavy air. I hate to mess with the original Alberg design. It is elegant and compliments the lines of the boat perfectly. However, I suspect my boat may have been delivered with a taller than standard rig. (Perhaps it was a Great Lakes – light air modification.) My P measurement is 1′ longer than than standard. Seat of the pants engineering led me to decide I needed to add 15% additional surface area on the trailing edge to help with the increased main sail area.
Initially I planned to open up the aperture and scarf some wood to the trailing edge but this stared to look too hacked together.
Abandoned Modification
Back to the drawing board. remove the original bronze shafts and build a new rudder. Luckily I happened across a 6/4 x 24″ mahogany board that would allow a one piece replacement. It is a testament to the quality of the bronze that Pearson used that, after almost 60 years, when I removed the nut access windows, the bronze tie rods unscrewed like they were assembles yesterday. Once removed, I used an induction heater to heat up the upper shaft and bend it back 30 degrees to allow for the larger aperture.
Next step is to make a template for the new rudder. I installed the new prop then made a Masonite blank and experimented with shapes that cleared the new prop, had the additional surface area, and looked like they belonged to this classic design.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220406_160419-copy-1.jpg
Once I decided on a shape I cut the plank to the new shape, ran the leading edge through a router with a 1″ rounding bit to accept the upper and lower shafts, drilled holes for the tie rods, then using a 1 1/2″ hole saw made windows for the new nuts.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220412_181048.jpg
New rudder faired with nut windows filled.
Next step is to install, coat with epoxy barrier coat and bottom paint.
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_112754-1-copy-1.jpg
On the boat
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220416_130151-copy-1.jpg
Barrier Coated with IP 2000 E
https://bisquitreborn.files.wordpress.com/2022/05/20220419_142029.jpg
Bottom Painted and ready to go
#89
Gallery / Ariel 322 (at last)
Last post by CapnK - April 29, 2022, 03:28:07 PMThe CL listing has been deleted. What happened? Let's hope she found a home!!! No Ariel should ever be scrapped, they're the prettiest of all Carl's wonderful designs... My girl Katie has, in her time with me, sat in slips right next to Tritons, an A-30 or 2, a A-35, and even Cape Dorys, and her lines edged them all out.
#90
Gallery / Ariel 322 (at last)
Last post by Fox - April 17, 2022, 07:01:18 PMBumping my very old thread because I need your help. I sold my Ariel over a decade ago, but it seems she has fallen on hard times since I had her. I recently found her on craigslist as a free boat in disrepair. The add mentions scrapping her. I would really hate for this to happen, I lived aboard for a summer and at the time my dream was to sail the world in her. It really kills me to think of my d boat being cut up. I am not in a place to save her, but maybe someone here can? I have attached a link to the Craigslist add and I will reach out to her current owner saying I have posted this. She was a good boat and does not deserve this fate. Thank you guys and happy sailing. https://nh.craigslist.org/boa/d/alton-free-1966-pearson-saiboat-26ft/7457631123.html