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Pearson Ariel 26 to good home.

1962. Beautiful classic lines. Very good sailor, easy to handle. Lovingly maintained. Brightwork gleams. Gas inboard recently serviced, in good condition. Tiller steering. 4 sails, 2 anchors, VHF, GPS. New York City area. $6,500.

call 917-499-3589

The quote from P F Middleton in another post resonated for me. I am also giving up. I hope somebody who can take better care of Mischief than me takes her home - she deserves it.
Robin Mace

http://www.robinmace.com/mischief/index.html

Well guys, I wanted fewer choices not more. The Detco Crystal does look interesting. And from that discussion in wooden boat, it might be the one. I actually love varnishing, I just never have enough time.

I'm replacing my coamings-someone crashed into Mischief last summer while she was sitting on the mooring and smashed one of the coamings. I consider myself lucky that that was the only damage. Anyway, I have 2 gorgeous new pieces of mahogany cut to fit and I'm starting to consider the varnish.
I used to use Epifanes but I remembered reading somewhere (I could swear it was here) that it doesn't last so for the last couple of years for some smaller projects I switched to the Interlux Schooner varnish. I think it lasted longer but that could be wishful thinking. I'm also looking at Pettit Z-spar, which is a bit more expensive, but if their copy is to believed, worth it.
Interlux is way thinner than Epifanes so it was hard to get used to.
Any new opinions on which is best? I noted all the praise earlier in this thread for Epifanes, so now I'm confused. Not unusual.

I had a frozen seacock. I couldn't replace it because you couldn't screw the new one on the thru hull without hitting the engine block which was added by a previous owner. So I'm moving the thru hull - I've glassed over the old hole and I'm now trying to figure out the placement for the new one. I of course have hit a new snag.
There is a strip of about 1" wood (I think)  that runs along the length of each cockpit locker. Now this is in the way.

Does anybody know if this is structural or can I cut off a piece to make way for the thru hull? And what would be the best way to cut it off? I would usually use a dremel with a cutting blade but getting a cutting blade that close to the hull is giving me cold sweats.

I looks to me like the strip was there to hold the old pegboard in place.



Thanks
Robin

Bill,
Thanks, I guess that's what I'll do.

Hi guys,
I have a new/old question. I have to replace one of my thruhulls and I'm having an argument with a friend, a Triton owner. I was going to buy a flanged seacock and thru bolt it through the hull like the book says to.
My friend says this is not only unnecessary but adds 3 holes in the hull for water to make its way in and 3 bolts to corrode and eventually let water in. I can't  make up my mind. His way would certainly be easier.
I'd be interested in your opinions on this critical issue.

Thanks

A friend of mine had end fittings like you showed and used 2 pieces of pvc pipe attached in the middle with a threaded piece so it could be broken down for stowing. It did eventually break but he had it for a while, certainly got his money's worth.

Thanks for the warning on the briggs & stratton.
I've heard both good and bad about the seagulls. They are easy to fix but on the other hand they do need fixing often. I'd be interested in the info you have if you can find it.

I guess this isn't strictly an ariel related question but I use the dink to get to the ariel so it's a fairly essential piece of equipment for the ariel.
Last fall my outboard died an untimely death (it's a long, sad story), so I need to replace the out board. I had a Johnson 2.3 (dink is 8' skimmer), which was a little underpowered.
It looks like Johnson/Evinrude has gotten out of the small outboard business, I've never heard anything good about Mercurys. There's a Briggs & Stratton 5hp for $700 which I think is a bit too heavy.
I'm thinking of looking for a used one, maybe in the 3-4hp range. Are there any suggestions for what to look for or where?
There's a website //www.smalloutboards.com, does anybody know anything about them?

I guess I've been away for a while--the window says I haven't visited since 2003. I don't totally believe that but the time does seem to fly by.

I was thinking of doing the repair recommended in the manual where you add steel plates to either side of the beam under the mast. Where I didn't see any bowing there before, or very little, it seems to be more pronounced now.
But I have lots of questions.

I guess I don't really understand why adding the plates  would strengthen the strongback--they wouldn't really be resting on anything so they wouldn't actually bear any weight.

I met someone who did this on an Albin Vega but he recommended strongly that you not jack up the beam first, because of all the unknown stresses you might inadvertently add. He just added the plate to the beam as it was. Any opinions?

I pulled off some of the formica around the beam to see what was under there and I'd like to keep going with taking it off but it continues behind the lockers. Any suggestions for how to cut it flush with the top surface of the lockers? Also, I've been warned against doing this, the part I took off came off very easily but I guess if some of it is better adhered you could actually damage the bulkhead.  Opinions?

also, I found three bolts already going through the beam--is that normal?

Robin
Mischief #44

I've never used peel away but there's another stripper that works well on bottom paint. You can order over the internet at:http://www.starten.com/
They claim they're better than peel away. I think I first heard about it in Good Old Boat
it goes on very thick and doesn't dry out so it will go through lots of layers.
I had good luck with it.

[Just did this project. This stuff is pretty hilarious to work with. Like a science project.]

Originally posted by commanderpete
Just did this project.
This stuff is pretty hilarious to work with. Like a science project.

I see what you mean about hilarious. I used a bit too much, actually, a lot too much (being mathematically challenged), the first time so it was extra hilarious for me.
I didn't see the drain holes you talked of--where are they?
I'll be fiberglassing over the holes in the top next.
Robin

Hi guys,
   I have some new questions on some of the lazarette repairs suggested in the manual. I've dug out the old foam in the compartments on either side of the outboard well. (It was ompletely water logged) I assumed urethane foam would be a straightforward item to find-but it's not. What is it, who makes it and where do you get it? And what form does it come in?
   I found one person that came up with something that you mix 1:1 that was for flotation, is that it?
Also, what adhesive would you use to attach the weather stripping?
   The varnishing is finally starting to proceed--the small matter of moving myself and Mischief back to New York sort of interfered.
Robin

Nice photos. I actually did some damage when I was getting mine off--the wood kind of splintered in a few places,  but it won't show when they're back on. I've put on a coat of paste wood filler--so I can start varnishing any day now.

Bill,
thanks for posting that Good Old Boat article, I'm in the process of thinking out how to tackle my decks on the side of the cabin. I tried the method where you drill holes, but it looks like I didn't quite get all of it as I'm getting spongy areas again. So I'm considering cutting out a whole panel. What I'm concerned about is running into areas of rotten core alternating with good, still laminated core. Which makes it impossible to get a panel of fiberglass off cleanly. Any suggestions?
Robin