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I just figure I'm never really going to get everything done (for all the reasons listed above, plus a few more) so whatever does get accomplished is merely progress towards an unattainable goal. Makes it much less stressful. Sometimes it's even fun. And I agree entirely with brute force being a viable approach.
And then there is are the costs. I've come up with a fairly reliable means of estimating those.
Make a detailed list of everything you might need, figure out what that comes to, then double that amount. Add another 50% on top of that and you should have a figure that will be slightly less than what you are actually going to end up spending. Works almost every time.
Tom

I second the motion for lightweight stadium/camping seats. Easily stowed, don't mar the finish and give you back support no matter where you want to sit or which way you want to face. They give some padding when you lean back against the coamings while bashing to windward and are great for kicking back with your feet up on the cockpit seats on a long reach. I don't leave the dock without them. Got mine from Campmor for ten bucks.
Tom

If you find a source for a ready made stern rail, please let me know.
Bending stainless without the right (and expensive) tools is an iffy proposition at best. Might be worth checking with your nearest trade/technical/vocational college to see if they have the technology to do it as a project in their metal shop.
Tom

Had a friend who carried a portaboat on his Islander 30 and loved it. Said it was easy to handle, easy to row and very stable. He was one of the odd ducks who valued function over form to the degree of finding ugly but functional a thing of beauty though. Have looked at them as an option for my Ariel but have concerns about stowage. Only logical place seems to be along the cabin trunk, which has some drawbacks- blocks light from entering, ruins the graceful lines of the boat, takes away side deck room going forward, interferes with inboard jib track. Securing them to the lifeline stanchions might work but the thought of green water coming over the boat and smacking into it gives me visions of stanchions ripped from the deck and other such unpleasantness. So in the meantime I'll stick with my WB 8, which has served well for many years. It does slow me down a bit but when I'm going anywhere that I drag a dinghy along I'm not usually in a hurry anyhow. Have also found it does remarkably well in rough conditions. Takes on surprisingly little water although I always keep a knife handy just in case I need to cut it loose. A good cover would probably eliminate what water is does take on. And it's a little disconcerting at first when it surfs alongside (and ahead of you if the painter is long enough)  in a following sea.
Have been toying with the idea of building a two piece nesting dinghy that would fit over the cabin ahead of the mast but so far it's only in the theoretical stage. Too many other things to do, like sail and sand and paint. Maybe when I get everything done. Yeah, right. I forget. I own a boat.

Pic is back, thanks to John Graves. One sailor helping another, regardless of the need. Makes you kind of glad to be one.
Tom

Sorry. Was told the pic took up too much space and was asked to delete it and resubmit at a lower pixel resolution. Managed to get it deleted but still haven't figured out how to change the resolution for resubmission. Will repost as soon as I do.
Tom

He's a good guy and makes a great rudder shoe.
Tom

Sailrite.com has everything you could ever want or need to make or repair sails. Prices were relatively sane last time I dealt with them. I might be able to find an unused small spool of sturdy sail thread around here somewhere if you don't need a lot. Hand sewing is easy but the stuff is hard on machines that aren't made for heavy stiff thread.
Tom

Now that the gray and dismal has returned to the Pacific Northwest it seemed time to dig out some sunnier images. Furthur at rest, Sucia Island in the San Juans

By all means do a search for outboards, etc. More info is available than you need. I seem to recall the consensus being that the 6hp 4stroke long shaft Nissan/Tohatsu/Mercury (same engine, different packaging) is the motor of choice- powers the boat nicely, fits in the well, small and light enough to move relatively easily, very reliable.
Tom

Hi
The wood will usually clean up nicely with a little work. (aka a lot of sanding)
You can wash it first with TSP to get surface grime off , then a dilute bleach to kill whatever mold is growing then it's time to get out the sander and take it down to bare wood. Much debate over varnish/Cetol/teak sealer for a finish on this site and elsewhere (do a search for all the opinions). My nutshell synopsis 1) Varnish is the most work but looks and lasts the best, 2) Cetol is simple, quick and easy to maintain but lacks the beauty of ten layers of varnish, 3) Oils protect the wood but don't give the shiny, glossy finish some people want. My choice was Cetol. I'd rather spend my time sailing than varnishing.
Warp in the hatchboards seems inevitable over time. A little looseness is necessary to allow for swelling and getting the boards in and out. If they are too loose or warped the easiest fix is to make new ones.
Have fun.
Tom

Lots of information on this site about rudders, rudder play etc if you do a search. A little play is normal and not much concern if all the parts are sound. A lot of play isn't normal and means a thorough inspection of the whole assembly. The rudder shoes are getting old on these boats and they do wear out.
Have fun.
Tom

I think it's a function of quantum mechanics. Not all the particles go where you want or expect them to go no matter what you do and sometimes they turn up in places you did not want or expect. It's physics and beyond our control.
Tom

Sailing by moonlight, especially a full moon, is something every sailor should experience. It borders on the magical. Night sailing in foul weather is intense and not necessarily fun, although it can be. Locally the buoys aren't much of a problem but there enough logs and deadheads floating around that you have to pay attention all the time. I'm also a big believer in being securely attached to the boat after sunset. It's the best way I know to avoid MOB practice. I run legal running lights and carry a big flashlight to light up the sails if need be. And I always assume the other guy doesn't see me and make sure I stay out of the way. So far it's worked every time.

Tom

You don't want to lay a four stroke on it's side. Crankcase oil gets into the cylinders and the motor won't run. For storage out of the water I built a small removeable stand that fits on the forward edge of the well that I can hoist the motor on to and secure it with the prop out of the water. I pull the motor and rest the prop guard off to the side in the lazarette while I mount the stand and then set the motor on it. It's pretty easy and avoids having to lift the motor all the way out of the lazarette and stow it below or somewhere else. It would also probably work well with the Garhauer (sp?) lift or any hoisting mechanism attached the backstay. It is NOT designed or suitable for carrying the motor while underway but I like having the motor mounted and ready to use when I go somewhere. Can provide pics if desired as soon as new camera arrives.

Tom