Messages

Does it go parallel to the storage bin. It might be structural
does it connect to another piece of wood which then forms a square
or more like a rectangle under the cockpit. If it does it might be structural

John

My cockpit supports are half A--ed
I glad someone put up pictures. Any suggestions
for supports and where can you buy support jacks
for reconstruction.


John

I think it was Everett Pearson that mentioned Baltec

and how he was cutting balsa into squares so the endgrain
was cut so that the would not meet. The Pearson's did
a test in the eighties with squares and a skim coat of
epoxy in Bristol RI they chained it to their dock and
left it for two years in the water in Narragansett Bay.
They only had 1 percent penetration of water with the
balsa squares and epoxy. He also mentioned they could
of had this as early as 1963 for racing. He mentioned
something about early Ariels and how they had delamination
of decks in 1962 and how it was a problem.

Just thought it was interesting.

John :eek:

Chris,

I think it's George Swartz over at Peabody Essex and slightly
failed in mentioning that you need to call them direct. Tell them you
need Carl Albergs plan  2941 Pages A,B,C, A is the hull B is the sail plan,
C is the a combination of the hull and interior a top view, side view, and a straight view.

Hope this helps
John

The previous owner of my boat changed everything to bronze

John

Plans are available at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts. It is Carl Albergs plan 2941 A-C. I needed exact measurements too.

John

Has anyone read the book. I bought a copy, kinda
interesting on deck coring. The interesting part
is when you get to Baltec. One of the Pearsons
was cutting up balsa so the water would not
penetrate like the squares but never pattoned
it. The other part was that wasn't until roughly
1963. Baltec added a skim coat later on for squares.
Hmmmm.


John

Did anyone ever
think of using neoprene gaskets. Just as
an extra precaution against leaking frames.
I was thinking of using on the inside and
outside of the cabin.


John

Ebb,

You should check out the Practical Sailor Article. It says 5200, 4200, and 101
do not bond to Stainless steel. 3M's reps don't recommend it's use with
SS. They will refer you to a Uniroyal product to use on it. If 3M says their product does not work on SS I'll take their word on it. I know it started
with an "S" but I'm not sure if it is Sika.

No Offense intended

John :eek:

Sika is the product to go with if you are doing deck fittings and bonding stainless steel or aluminium. 5200 does not bond to SS or 4200 or 101. 3M reps will tell you that. Sika a Uniroyal product does bond to SS. You can check with practical sailor as far as the right sika product is.

John

I have heard that it is illegal in Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Hampshire,
Vermont and possible Maine for dumping gray water (sink water) overboard.
I was just wondering if anyone installed a holding tank for the sink.

John :eek:

I have to dig the photo out of storage but it looks like the area was cut about a 16th of an inch all around the stemhead and it is not level with deck. I think the hull and deck joint are solid. I think commanderpete had it nailed that the area might need painting.

John

Theis,

That is something Im glad you brought up. The wires to the socket for the light
to illuminate the compass weren't twisted. I pulled it out because it was completely corroded. I bought a new perko socket to replace it. Now I will twist the new wire.

Thanks

John

I have the serial number from the state. Would that be the Hin and it starts MSZ I think and then a few numbers (4) and an L and then a 119 :confused:

John

The area effected is where a shelf was put in the chainlocker. On the port and
starboard sides fiberglass tape was used. When I removed the shelf and the tape because it in such poor condition, I noticed the sun coming in on the portside about 12 inches below the hull and deck joint where the shelf had been. The Sprite (the boat) looks like it had some sort of damage where the
stemhead is it's not level on the curve at the point of the bow on the top. (If that makes sense :eek: ). Ok lets try this again. If you are on the deck and you are looking at the bow at the very point where the stemhead is bolted it is not level with edge or with the bow's curve. It looks like a poor repair. Anyway what  I was looking for was how to reinforce or thicken the area where the shelf had been so that there is no sunlight coming in.

John