Messages

1966 Pearson Commander "Missing Piece"
25'7" 5100# 2700# ballast 8' beam

info @ http://www.pearsonvanguard.homestead.com/files/comandr.htm

Mercury electric start OB, main, genny, jib, wood cradle, hull number 227. Very sound boat. Bought last year and put in water-absolutely no hull leaks; bilge was as dry at end of season as when she went in the water. I intended to fix up (cabin needs to be repainted, some cosmetics) for later downsizing from a Vanguard, but find I have neither the time nor the energy to work on two boats.

Pictures on request pv@wi.rr.com Asking $3100

Thanks Bill.   I've got many pages of info on this from other 60's boats websites and forums, too, but there always seems to be more that comes up with further discussion.
Fred

Will they have parts for Pearson yachts other than the A/C?  I have a Vanguard as well as a Commander and would be interested in parts for both, as I'm sure other Pearson owners would be.
Fred

There is a 1965 Commander listed on ebay at the following site.  This is not my listing, being sold by blockislandmaritime.com.  With 6 1/2 days to go it is at $405.  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-Pearson-Commander-Sail-Boat-needs-TLC-ME-N-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63730QQitemZ4598365231QQrdZ1

Fred

It's actually a Valspar product.  Here's the url to find dealers.

http://www.valspar.com/val/resident/gymseal.jsp

Fred

My Vanguard large portlights are the same.  Originally chrom plated bronze, now after replacing the "glass" they are bare bronze.  I haven't seen any ss portlights in other Vanguards, either.

Fred

It's an interesting story.  A couple years ago I put an add for a Commander listed for $5000 on my for sale page of pearsonvanguard.org for 6 months-never even crossed my mind to inquire about it.  Then a while later I noticed a nice looking Commander for sale while motoring through McKinley Marina on my annual visit to our other marina in Milwaukee.  I keep Callisto, my Vanguard, at South Shore yacht club.  I took some pictures of her and lusted after her, but didn't really think of buying another boat.  Off and on I'd hear of a Commander at Cramer marine in Milw. for $5000.  Then a few weeks ago I happened to look in the classifieds and saw a Commander listed for $3000.  A couple weeks later it was down to $2500, so I called and went to see it.  Someone who had two boats needed to get rid of one of them and I guess I needed two boats, because I now am the proud owner of Callisto, a 1964 Pearson Vanguard, and Missing Piece (probably to be renamed soon), a 1966 Pearson Commander.

After 19 years, I am once again the owner of a Commander.  I am buying hull #227, Missing Piece, after the Shel Silverstein children's book.  I owned hull #216, Skylark, for about 7 years before trading her for a Pearson  Vanguard, which I still own.  I guess I'm a bit crazy owning two boats but I couldn't pass this one up for $2200.  I'm planning on taking my time doing some restoration and using her if my Vanguard becomes too much to handle.  I could probably use the time on my Vanguard, but ever since I got rid of my first Commander, I've wanted one.
Fred Fuller

Here's the second one again in a smaller format. Sorry for the large one

The third one is the Vanguard drawing

The second picture is the top view Picture was too big.
See below for picture that replaces this image>

I have some pictures of the replacement SS tiller fitting and one of the drawings for the Vanguard fitting.  The Vanguarg fitting is easier to make as the "wings" don't need to be flared out, but a good machinist can do it for you.  The first picture is of the side view

I agree that the fitting will be strongest with the tiller in the down position.  I had no control how previous owners of both boats sailed their boats, but I am guilty of sailing with the tiller too high.  That's another reason why I like having a stainless fitting.  As far as welding vs. brazing bronze, both can be done. For a very informative article (about Lotus 7 cars and their construction) see http://7faq.com/owbase/ow.asp?NotesOnWelding.  I did not attempt to advocate one method over the other; I know nothing about either one.   My stainless fitting is welded, super strong and I'm happy with it.  There's been no degradation in it's strength in the 17 years I've owned my boat.  However, each to his or her own; there are many ways to rig a boat.

I suppose the dissimilar metals question is a pertinent one, but in 17 years I haven't noticed any problems.  I had the new fittings made by someone who worked in a factory I met at the marina here in Milwaukee and don't remember the name, but this is a very easy project for someone with the proper tools and access to materials.

Brazing the existing fitting would be a solution, but there might be other areas after all these years of use that could be suffering from fatigue and I wanted something I could count on.  Having the fitting on my Commander break a week after being caught in 20 ft. waves and gale winds made me skeptical of reusing the fitting.  The part that broke was opne of the straps that tie the two parts of the fitting together.  During this same crossing, friends who were in another Commander traveling in tandem with us broke their tiller itself and were towed in; I now carry a spare tiller with fitting just in case!  I probably don't have quite the worry of galvanic action being in fresh water as some of you would in salt water.

Has anyone had any problems with water intrusion into the areas either just ahead of the rudder or at the forward end of the keel?  I've heard that this is a problem for  Tritons, Renegades, and Vanguards and wondered if it also affects Ariels and Commanders.