Just got the boat from my brother. I'm glad land rover's came with a 12 cylinder twin turbo diesel in 2000. What a load! My plan is to get this boat in a sailing condition soon. Anyone got any free time come on over, I'm in North alabama.
Hey Mike.
Congrats and welcome aboard
Man, I will never get tired of seeing pictures of these beautiful hulls. :D
(that is saying something, I have had 'Faith' on the hard, doing hard labor for 2 weeks now.. )
Getting a trailer with it is a real bonus, good luck on getting her ready, and back in the water.
Here's some pics of the bulkhead repair under the mast.
Yes Mike, welcome a board!
That strongback does look strong.
I would sit back in there and check out whether there should be thru bolts thru the compression uprights in the corners of the doorway. That would lock those babies in.
Original Ariels also have cross bracing on that bulkhead that spreads the load outward on the V-berth seats.
However on the cabin side the beam looks well supported using the bulkhead.
Keep an eye on it, and maybe add back that extra bracing on the V-berth side of the wall sometime. This is imho.:D
Of course if the bulkhead was rebuild and everything is now epoxied together......
it's hard to tell sitting here in California!
Thanks for the advice ebb. I have a few extra bolts, I might as well add those there for some extra support.
Here's a pic of the mast mount. I made the new base out of delrin.
Here's some pics of the inside of my boat. I hope to have this boat in the water soon.
Thanks for the pics - looks like you've been busy! Good luck getting her ready to launch.
I painted the bottom this last weekend. I used Bottomkote by West marine.
Sheer poetry.
I'm just jealous that you're making plans for splashing.
That is a ways off in Michigan.
Note ice to the horizon...
I launched the Ariel yesterday on the Tennessee River. Here's a few pics.
I still have some work to do, but I'm sailing between work now.
I have some stains on the main sail, any ides on how to remove stains??
Here are the cleaning instructions a sail maker gave me:
Lay out a big poly tarp on level ground - spread your sail out on the tarp. With a grease free, medium plastic bristle brush and 5 gal. pale with a solution of dish soap (joy) and liquid bleach (edit: not sure how much bleach) - give each side of your sails a vigorous scrub - rinse clean and hang on a line to dry. Be sure the sails are completely dry before flaking and storing.
Don't know if it'll work on stains, but I suspect the bleach would certainly help. (Ebb or someone else may know of some natural and friendlier cleaner to use instead of bleach - maybe he'll pipe in?)
In any event, congrats and enjoy!!!
The best sails in the universe are made by Carol Hasse & Co.
She says, like you, wash them on a smooth surface. Try not to walk on them.
Use mild soap solution and fresh water. Rinse thoroughly until ALL soap is gone.
Remove oil with small amounts of lighter fluid
"To remove mildew sailcloth manufacturers recommend a highly dilute solution of Sodium Hypochlorite(3-5%). Because it is toxic to you and the environment, we (Port Townsend Sails) object to the use of bleach except as a last resort. We have also heard and common sense leads us to concur that bleach strips the coating from thread and leaves stitching vulnerable to UV damage..
Never use bleach on Nylon or laminated sails!
A hot tip for cleaning sails from PT Sails staff:
Dilute 2TBLS Woolite and 1-2 cups vinegar in 1 gallon water. Some of our customers have had great luck with this solution."
The above in quotes is a direct quote.
Hang and fully dry and loosely fold sails. And store them in a well-ventilated place away from heat.
Mold/mildew is a live organism that eats cellulose fibers. It has to be Killed. Bleach kills everything. (Of course Dacron sails are polyester fabric - so the molds are living on what you stored the sails with when they were last put away, moisture, vegetable particles in the air, and locker fug.:eek:)
Woolite (just another petroleum based detergent) in the small quantity in the above formula is probably fairly harmless. It is made from alcohol ethoxy sulfate that actually is nonylphenol ethoxylate which is an endocrine disruptor that stimulates estrogen production.
The assumption of the cleaning instructions is that the mildew is active.
Old and dried mold we're mostly out of luck!!! I would try steam cleaning though. There are small steam cleaners appearing on the market. You want the kind that uses a wand to direct the steam.
For plain soap I would try Simple Green. Simple Green does not disclose ingredients but says that it's biodegradable, just don't dump it down a storm drain.
Might try H2Orange2 which contains hydrogen peroxide and citrus as a presoak and wash. Oxycleen is another h.peroxide cleaner - I don't use it mainly because of the jerk who yells about it on the TV ad! In any case. dilute solutions first. Dilute hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate, is not considered toxic. Any quantity of sodium hypochlorite is toxic.
Detergents are petroleum based products. The old way was to use a strong liquid detergent as a soak on mildew and oil stains, then wash using the same stuff with hot water. Now we try to avoid that.
Salt and lemon juice for rust stains. Torresen says try it on mildew too.
Green products are making good head way as alternatives to petroleum product pollution that the great chemical corporations have suckered us feckless housewives into. The end costs are proving deadly. Most of us are fine as long as someone else does the ethics. It costs upfront a little more to use Seventh Generation, Biokleen, and Whole Foods soaps. You won't find a spray bottle for mildew on their shelves. But there are liquids like 'Bac-Out' stain remover using enzyme cultures and citrus that might be worth a try. A final wipe down with WHITE VINEGAR of sails and lockers after cleaning is said to prevent molds from returning.
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Fungi can be toxic to humans. When the boat is drying out down below and you are moving things about you can breathe in spores that cause mycoses, sometimes serious. I've always assumed that sodium chloride and molds are enemies - wood ships carried salt in their bilges.
If there is a mold problem in an Ariel then you could have a 'fresh' water leak.
Have to source the leak, reaccess the ventilation, and remove mold from lockers and corners. If you smell mold:( when you open up the boat you got a problem.
Like I said... :)
Thanks Ebb!
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=495
Rust is going to be difficult to get out completely
Good to see the boat sailing again
Thanks for the advice on cleaning the sails. I'm going sailing this weekend. I'm looking at sailing up the river and anchor down for the night. Looks like the high will be 60 - 65 degrees and wind 5 - 10 mph. It was cold earlier this week, we even got alittle snow.
I have a Genoa Jib that was damaged in a storm. I need to get this sail repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions? I may try to repair it myself. Another option is just buy a used one if I can find one. Any advice would be nice. Thanks Mike
Here's some pics from this weekend. I'm in the orange shirt.
Also notice the sea swing retrofitted with a MSR pocket rocket.
Mike
Cool mod on the sea swing stove. That was on the short list for my boat's galley improvements this year. can you add some details on the bracket that now holds the new burner??
cheers,
bill@ariel231
Quote from: mikeroth;17042I have a Genoa Jib that was damaged in a storm. I need to get this sail repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions? I may try to repair it myself. Another option is just buy a used one if I can find one. Any advice would be nice. Thanks Mike
Darn, Mike - coulda sworn I replied to this... So here it is:
Sail repair/cleaning - try sailcare.com , but with a caveat: this is their *busiest* time of year, if you send sails in now, you'll wait literally for months to get them back. Come summer, it's different - a matter of weeks. Everyone I know who's sent them sails has been happy, with one exception: a fellow who sent his sails in back in January, without asking for a time frame. He'll be getting them back in April, he says. :)
As far as buying used, go to Google and search "used sails for sale" - there will be lots of results. Atlantic Sail Traders is one outfit I've heard good things about.
Good luck! Love the pictures!
Mike
Congrats and good on you for 'rubbing our noses' in your sailing. Gawd I wish I was in your shoes!
Tell us about that pocket rocket. My searching found much good about it with a common drawback of having issues with temperature control. being I burn everything I toss in a pan I'll rely on your experience.
The MSR pocket rocket is a stove I have used often when I go backpacking. I can't remember having any problems controlling the temperature. The burner is small so it could produce a hot spot on the bottom of the pan or pot when cooking. It does burn hot so it doesnt take long to boil water, but it can also be turned down to simmer food.
I made a semi "z" shaped stainless bracket to mount it to the bottom of the Sea Swing. The pocket rocket can easily be taken apart between the chrome part and the bottom aluminum part. Then you will remove the pot rest assembly and mount the stove to the "z" shaped bracket.
I
I took my head out of the boat this week for a rework. It's an old Wilcox Crittenden headmate. I stripped the paint and polished the bronze and brass, and then sprayed a clear coat on it. It was alot of work but I think it was worth keeping it rather than buying a new one. Now I just need to find a pretty wood seat to finsih it off.
That's the prettiest toilet I've ever seen. It's very shippy! :)
Me on Mike's boat:
"Use *THAT* pretty thing? No way! That's ART!!! Um... You have a bucket around here?"
:D
We must herewith recall that Marcel Duchamp changed the course of art when he displayed a urinal at an art exposition some 91 years ago in Paris.
It is a fact that fifteen years ago a performance artist urinated into the famous urinal and got himself arrested. The same guy two years ago tried to smash it with a hammer saying the Dadaists would approve.
Can you imagine the concern and great care noodnik restorers had to take when invisibly gluing the old head back together? And the flick of the rag with the last stroke of a perfect repair?
Probably not in French but porcelain basins have been intimately linked to art with a famous 'F' word in the States. Who is to say that inspiration and creation are not inexplicably linked with form and function.
mikeroth's headmate renovation has taken marine art to a new level.
Try not to get arrested.:D
Here's some pics from this weekend. One pic is of my genoa, I did the sail repair myself. The white part was repaired back to the trailing edge of the sail and then I sewed on the navy sunbrella. Also here's a pic of spinnaker being sailed for the first time.
Did you get to go out this weekend? We went out Saturday in that heavy wind... ( I know 20 to 25 knots is not heavy for you west coast guys but in the lakes of Alabama it was great!)
We wet the rail most of the day... and even swamped the cockpit once....! The starboard winch was under water ! what a great day.... what a great boat! I'll post pics of this weekend later....
mike
We went out Last Saturday as well. I went out on a friends 34 foot ericson. The wind was against the currernt producing some big waves. We had the rail in the water as well. I got a few things to do on my boat before I take it out in those kind of winds. I need to get my reefing on the main working and I also need to run a block and tackle arrangement on my jib haylard so I can get enough force to get the front roller furling jib tight.
Here some pics from this weekend. Running wing and wing with the spinnaker. I made a very nice ladder for climbing the mast. I made it from 3/4" teak rungs and 1" tubular webbing. A friend of mine volunteered to climb it for me to make some changes to my jib halyard. Also a pic of me at the helm.
thats a pretty spinnaker... is that a assyametrical or a radial spinnaker...
it's good to have a rail rat to go up the mast for you!
QuoteI made a very nice ladder for climbing the mast. I made it from 3/4" teak rungs and 1" tubular webbing
Looks pretty sharp. Bet that is much easier to use then the ATN chat climber that I bought :cool: (save your money...).
Great pics, thanks. :D
Here's some pics from last weekend. We had our first sailing club regatta. My boat is the fastest!!!
Great pics Mike, thanks!
RE: pic one. Something just looks soooo "right" in pictures of these boats under sail!
Here's some pics of my boat on the tennesse river.
Here's some new photos of the inside of my Ariel. I bought some hunter green and white striped material to cover the cushions for an outlet store. I did the sewing myself. It's not perfect, but it will work for now. I also installed a window a/c unit under the cockpit and ducted the cold air to a hole in the steps. The return air is pulled from the from vee berth thru the starboard cabinet and under the starboard berth.
You've come a long way!! http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showpost.php?p=15208&postcount=4 Nice work. No need for A/C up this way.
I installed a teak bi-fold door recently. I bought it from the marina. It came off a power boat that sank in the harbor. I had to cut it down 4" on the width and 6" on the height. Not bad for $20.
Mike,
great pics, great work.
great find on those loover doors -
Cutting them down makes them totally custom!
great way you mounted them!
What is so fine about varnished stuff?
we forget sometimes
it's so good to touch.
Fabric you got there, works too!!
A picture from this weekend. Me and a friend made a trip to Joe Wheeler from decatur Harbor. He was sailing his Pearson Wanderer. A distance of 28 miles in only 5 hours! Not bad for river sailing.
Mike,
Great work. Great ideas. Couple of Q's....
Is your spinnaker symmetrical or asymmetrical? Looks like symmetrical, but not using the pole.
Also, any photos of how you mounted your air conditioner under the cockpit and how you piped the air back to the unit? I have one of those cruisair units in the hatch, but it barely keeps the boat cold in heat of summer. Plus, have to lug it on and off the deck and storing it is a pain!. Does your setup cool it down in July?
Thanks.
I just finished making a stainless holding tank. I also designed and made a folding table. The top is only 14" x 24". It can be tilted to an angle.
It can be taken apart to store or just folded and stored as shown.
mike
nice bit of fabrication on the table and the tank. I was considering swaping my flex tank for a rigid tank at the same location. Curious about the capacity of your new tank. 6 gal? 8 gal?
cheers,
bill@ariel231:)
Great looking little table Mike, I just may have to try copying it:)
Mike
She is looking good. One of the best aspects of this forum is seeing how others have fitted out their boat to suit them. There are a lot of really good ideas floating around out there on Ariels and Commanders. Bill's question flys from here too. That seems like an ideal spot for a holding tank. What is your expected volume? A one-off job wold maximize the use of space in that area. You have the right idea. Although, isn't stainless contraindicated for holding tank use? I thought I read somewhere that the acidic contents wreaked havoc on the welds...:confused: Maybe I dreamt the whole thing up. Regardless, more photos please.
Tony,
Yeah, you dreamt the whole thing up. If that were a reality, trucks hauling acids and the like would be breaking apart going down the road. All welds have what's called a heat effecting zone, which makes the area along the weld more brittle than the original metal, Stainless is the best material for this, IMO. Don't ask how I know this..... I may have just dreamt it:D:D
The volume is about 8 gallons. It was the same dims as the old holding tank. The old one cracked at the top last year, I did glue it back but I didn't trust it any more. I'm sure the welds will be fine, I'm not worried about corrosion. I also smeared 5 minute epoxy over the welds just for an extra safety.
A picture of me sailing on the Tennessee River today.
What a great picture! Thanks for a vicarious thrill for those of us still stuck on the hard.
Sailing days soon.........:)
Looks like a great day Mike. We went out today to Sail (also in Alabama) When I pulled the start rope the motor started right up, BUT, reverse didn't move the boat.... Forward didn't move the boat either. I pulled up the motor from the well and YES the prop was not there. The last time I took it out (a month ago) there was a lot of debris floating in the water as they were raising the water level on the lake.... I must have hit something and sheered the pin. The underwater current must have loosened the prop enough to remove it from the shaft. I don't know what happened except that I couldn't go sailing today... And wow what a great wind today! Oh well... Maybe Thursday! I'm going to be pulling mine out of the water next month, so i'll miss most of this season.
I just picked up a used bimini with a stainless frame from the harbor this weekend. It was left over from a used boat, and it had been sitting around for years. I got it for free. I spent some time making a new top from some sunbrella I had left over from an ebay purchase.
How about a measurment chart? We could use it as good starting point for bending one up. Think of it as an 'online catalog of Ariel/Commander facts', or something to that effect.
Here's a few pics from this week. I've had the boat out since last Saturday sanding and painting. I also named the boat "schnell". German word for fast.
The boat looks great from 20 feet. It's not bad for an outside paint job.
Looks fantastic! Keep it up and you're going to run out of things to do on your boat! ;)
Mike,
Very pretty . Schnell eh...not mach schnell.
Did you roll it out or brush it and whose paint? I am facing that job in the near furture.
I used Interlux Brightside Polyurethane, it was rolled on with a foam roller. I painted 3 coats of dark blue and only used just under 2 quarts.
Mike,
Thanks for the info. Brightside was the one I had at the top of my list. It looks like wonderful job.
John
I'm getting this engine this weekend. It's a Yanmar horizonal single cylinder, 7hp engine with gearbox. From my measurements it looks like it would fit in my boat.
I took some more measuremenst and decided to not get the Yanmar, I think the horz. engine might be too tight on inside walls. I'll keep looking for another engine.
Quote from: mikeroth;20748I took some more measuremenst and decided to not get the Yanmar, I think the horz. engine might be too tight on inside walls. I'll keep looking for another engine.
I did not want to be a 'neysayer' since you are the one with the motor and the tape measure... but it looked like it was gonna need to be sitting in about the middle of the cabin sole to have a wide enough mount.
Good luck on you quest.
I have a diesel engine on the way, it should be here next week. It's a one cylinder 8hp diesel engine. I'll take my boat out next week to start the retrofit, as soon as the ice melts in the harbor. It's been a cold week here in North Alabama.
Does anyone have any drawings on how your Ariel is set up as far as the shaft tube, prop shaft, cutlass bearing, and packing, etc?
Have you checked the drawing on page 158 of the manual? It might help.
I don't have a manual, con you just post that page?
renault couach r8d. that is an interesting choice for an engine, availability of spares and documentation will not be easy, but it is possible.
based on my install of a Westerbeke 20B2 into A-231 i can offer some limited advice. I recommend you get the following:
1. ariel/commander manual. the drawings set is very helpful but i did my installation before the book was available (had the A/C manual been available the installation would have gone faster).
2. owners manual for the renault. you will want the dimensions of the mounts, offsets to the output shaft and the max/min slope for installation. you will need this to build a 2D mockup of the engine mounts and output shaft. this will seem like extra work but it will save a lot of time in laying out your engine beds. My mockup became part of the jig to 'glass the engine beds in place and to align the engine mounts on the beds.
3. get a copy of Dan Spurr's "Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat". this was my roadmap for the Westerbeke install. His examples include the install of a small BMW engine into a Pearson Triton. Among the good ideas shown in this book include rigging a wire from the cutless bearing to the forward bulkhead in order to register the locations of the engine beds.
For another great source, take a look at //www.triton381.com for two engine installation examples (both yanmars).
Thanks for the help Bill. I came across the Renault from craigslist for $500. It was out of the boat when the hurricane hit east Florida years ago. The boat was being refurbished and it was destroyed. It looks to be in good shape. I got the manual downloaded and the parts are still available through a different company. I don't think it will to that bad to install. I can't wait to get the diesel in the boat.
There are not a lot of drawings for diesel installations on the site but you will find some pictures on the A-231 thread (posts #120-#122) and on Mike's A-414 thread.
these will give you a feel for the close quarters and potential need to move the cabinets.
Here's a pic of my engine after some work. I rebuilt the water pump, installed a new fuel pump and starter. I started it a few times, with the pull cord, she runs great. I just installed the new starter this week, it turns plenty fast to start it. I plan to take the boat out in a few weeks and start the process of getting it installed.
Do you have someone or some company helping with the installation of the shaft log, engine beds etc?
I'm doing the installation myself.
with us as you go. along with pictures and discriptions of any problems that come up along the way. I for one will find it very intresting since I am planning on doing something similar except my "engine" will be a 48VDC motor.
Here's some pictures of the plugs removed from the keel and rudder for the inboard propeller.
It looks like the plug from the keel was hollow. I have not started cutting mine out yet but it sure sounds very solid when I sound it with a hammer.
I wish my rudder was that easy to deal with. I'm going to be making a whole new one since the one on the boat is a replacement and has a SS shaft that is continuous from top to bottom. I already have the quartered mahogany and have found the CDA 655 Silicon bronze from a company called Atlas Metals which I will be ordering soon. Then I will need a local machine shop to do the machining to the bronze shaft. before I can start putting things together.
Here's a few pics showing the engine installation. I made a mock-up of the Renault Engine from plywood, with engine mount locations, also a front and rear plate with a hole drilled at the center-line of the output shaft. These holes in the front and the rear of the mock-up are used to align the mount mounts. I shot a laser through the hole to check alignment. I designed and made the motor mounts from 2" square stainless tubing. The right and left hand mounts are bolted in place and will be glassed to the hull as well.
As you guys can see I have an extra weight added in the keel. After adding the diesel engine installation, should I remove the extra weight?? The weight of the diesel engine is around 150 lbs.
A few pics of the motor mounts glassed to the hull. I also put the engine in place to check the fit.
That little Renault is sooo cute! I want one I want one I want one!
I'd pull the lead out.
The lead was added by Pearson to compensate for the missing engine in OB model boats. Removing lead should improve performance without any downside.
You have an almost certainly guaranteed "squatter" - my vote is to yank the extra weight out. My lead pig currently lives in the bows in the chain locker to try and compensate for the squatiness. With that and a full water tank, I'm almost trimmed properly.
I did remove the lead weight, thanks for the information, it's weight was 110 lbs. Here's a few pics of how I aligned the shaft tube. I bolted a 1 1/4" dia. pilot on my plywood mock-up, in the location of the output shaft. With the mock-up clamped to the engine mount I then put the tube in place, sliding the tube over my 1 1/4" pilot. I also made a 3/4" plywood support for the tube inside the boat. The tube is glassed in place inside and out, and around my plywood support. I'll cut the tube off, about 6" inside my plywood support. My next task will be painting everything in the engine compartment.
Your alignment idea looks like a good plan. It is interesting to watch the creative ways people come up with to solve a problem. Keep up the good work.
Cutlass Bearing in place and new paint. Ready to install the engine, fuel tank, etc.
Man.... you must need sunglasses in that bilge :cool:
Looking good down there.
Mike,
That boat just keeps getting better! I had to go back to page one and take the tour again. Great work on your engine install. Your's are the first motor mounts I've seen that were more than 'islands' built up from the hull right below the motor. They look strong and secure, which makes sense considering there's a few hundred pounds attached to it and a rod that goes through the hull!
Cheers.
Thanks Tony. Because of the design of the Renault Engine, the motor mounts are kinda tall. The motor mounts are close to the centerline of the crankshaft. The mounts are very strong. They are made of 304 stainless, about 1/18" thick. I secured the weldments in place with (2) 3/8" and (1) 1/2" stainless bolts before glassing the bottom part to the hull. It fees like I could put a 1000 pound diesel on them.
Mike,
I love the way that painted engine bay looks and I'd like to paint mine the same way. How did you go about prepping that area and how did you paint it? thanks, Jon
Jon,
As fas as prepping the area to paint, all I did was wash it good with soap and water. I spayed it at first with a low pressure paint gun, and then rolled back over it for the second coat. I used an oil based industrial enamel from Lowes, Valspar was the brand, it dried hard and has a good finish.
Mike, thanks for the suggestion. I have painted a lot of my needy areas with a brush but I will probably get that LP spraygun to finish. I also plan to use the paint you used. I sure do appreciate your suggestion.
Here's a picture of my fuel tank. It's a Moeller 13 gallon fuel tank, it's 32" x 10.19" x 10.19". I made an aluminum cradle out of 1 1/2" angle, welded construction. The fuel fill is on the starboard side.
Mike,
That looks great and it's pretty much what I had in mind for Sirocco, if I can ever get that big gas tank out. I had also thought of mounting a small diesel tank in the laz, but I haven't thought it out and don't really think I'd like it. Here is a picture of my engine bay right after the A-4 was pulled and I'd scrubbed a bit. You can see the gas tank to the left of the prop shaft. I also notice that your port cabin drain runs through a straight thru fitting that looks like it would accommodate a hose from a galley sink. Take a look at mine, which is a seacock that I can't open. I pulled the hoses and about a quart of rank, vile water spilled all over me. Gotta try to figure what to do what that thing too.
A pic of my outboard engine compartment filled in and the new propeller. I plan on painting the bottom of the boat just before I put it back in the water.
Nice looking work there, Mike!
Thanks Kurt. Here's some more fuel tank pics.
Mike, I just saw this. Gorgeous work. What is attached above the fuel tank on the last picture?
Quote from: Jon;21818Mike, I just saw this. Gorgeous work. What is attached above the fuel tank on the last picture?
That's the fuel fill inlet, it came with a orange plug from the factory. I'll remove the plug and run a fill hose from a deck mounted stainless fill connector.
Mike
I have to agree your work looks well thought out and executed. Keep up the good work.
Have to agree with Jon and Jerry on this one, Mike. Nice stuff going on there. I wonder if Jon was refering to the 'c' shaped clamp(?) by the bilge pump. If not, I'm gonna ask about it...
Quote from: Tony G;21829Have to agree with Jon and Jerry on this one, Mike. Nice stuff going on there. I wonder if Jon was refering to the 'c' shaped clamp(?) by the bilge pump. If not, I'm gonna ask about it...
That "c" shape item was for the handle for the bilge pump, it sits in there for storage.
I just installed a Vetus Sisco engine control unit and the Renault control panel.
Everything is hooked up and ready to go. I got the little Renault running today. She purrs like a kitten. I will lunch this week.
What a sweet installation. Congratulations.
I agree WELL DONE!!!!
Everything looks ship shape and orderly and just generally a very nice installation. You took the time to do things right. Thanks for sharing.
Wow!!! great job on your boat! I've got to come up there and see that beauty!!!!!
Went sailing last week, we had some gusts to 27 knots. I need to get my sewing machine out again, ripped the head sail a bit.
Mike, every thing looks great, one of these little engines popped up on Ebay with trans. and Instr. panel for a buy-it-now of $550 while I was thinking about and viewing your post on this engine, some one bought it. Are you satisfied with the power output of this engine? I would like a small light inboard with an alternator like yours or maybe even a 2 cylinder Yanmar. Happy sailing!
carl,
The Renault engine pushes the Ariel just fine. I had no problem motoring last weekend with the gusty winds on the Tennessee River. I don't have a tach, But I'm guessing the engine is running about 1500 - 1800 rpm when the boat is at 5 knots. It seems that 5 knots is the maximum speed it with go with this setup. That's with a my 13"x13" propeller. Seems like I remember reading somewhere in one of my books that the maximum speed of the boat under motor will be slightly less than the actual hull speed.
I just finished a gimbaled bracket for a Coleman 508 gas stove. Works great.
and all aluminum
including the rod.
Really swings!
The main part that the stove sets in was made from 1/4" 304 stainless rod. The end support was 1" aluminum tubing, the other support was a piece of teak.
Nice gimbaled stove prototype! You're about halfway to having a nice little side business. We're counting on you to get this economy moving!
For a 'review' of the stove see
google> Coleman 508 stove and carrier
By Seger 30 June 2002
The carrier is a aluminum cube with a tight fitting lid that can be used to cook with.
If these still come with the cannister, it seems like a good way to safely store the stove when not in use.
The cannister stove is reminisent of WWII GI stoves which Coleman made.
The 508 stove of course uses gasoline type fuels
Serger's review is a good intro into bringing it aboard the A/C.
Now that spriffy gimbal, where to get one of those?:cool:
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The best times past were with a Coleman two-burner with the lid and wings on the yearly camping trip.
A couple those models went to Yosemite as the kid grew up. A h h, those were the days!
google> Coleman stoves post - 1945
Coleman made alcohol and kerocene models, wonder what happened that they didn't continue?
Don't believe there is much of a problem coming up with Coleman fuel or white gas in the States.
I've a similar stove; the multi-fuel version that will burn Coleman, regular gas, or kero. Been planning this type of implementation. Did you do the work, Mike?
Yep, I designed and built everything.
A view of Schnell from the top of the mast.
Just looking at that picture gives me vertigo!
Gawd! These are great looking boats from every angle! I gotta ask though, how did you get that picture? Send the camara up with a timer? Did you just pull a still out of a video? I don't see any rigging for going up the mast or any feet pinching a toe hold...
Tony,
I took this picture by tying my Nikon D90 camera to the main sail halyard. I just wrapped a small line around the camera several times, with the lens pointing down. I focused the lens to infinity. Lifted the camera as high as I can, with a down haul line to keep the camera steady. Once the camera was at the top I took several pictures using my remote shutter release.
I just finished sewing new cushion covers. I made the bottom and the sides out of a marine grade vinyl. The top of the covers was made from a sunbrella that I ordered from sailrite.
Looks beautiful Mike. I like the vinyl for the bottom and sides, what kind of machine did you use?
Quote from: Tim D.;22786Looks beautiful Mike. I like the vinyl for the bottom and sides, what kind of machine did you use?
Just used an old Kenmore sewing machine, heady duty needles and strong thread.
Very nice Mike. That is a job I hope to get my wife working on soon. I have enought to do with my structural changes.
Your boat is looking very ship shape below decks. :-)
I'm trying something new for an icebox. My built in ice box doesn't keep things cold very long. The 16 quart igloo cooler I used for this is great, it takes days for ice to melt in it.
[URL=http://www.igloocoolers.com/Coolers_3/All-Coolers/16-Quart-Cool] (http://www.igloocoolers.com/Coolers_3/All-Coolers/16-Quart-Cool)
I placed the cooler at the bottom of the tall locker at an angle to allow for easy access. There is some storage behind the cooler and I added a shelf for additional storage. The cooler was a tight fit, I had to remove the door to get it in. I may use ice packs instead of ice, then I won't have to worry about getting removing water from the melted ice.
I just installed a marine a/c in the old ice box compartment. That ice box never keep ice very long anyway. Got it working just before the heat of the summer. A King Air marine A/C, 12K BTU.
My new bimini top that I sewed myself out of some left over sunbrella.
Shade! Cooler! A/C!
Have a great relaxing summer!
with a bit of sailing thrown in for good measure.:cool:
Nice work Mike! You certainly have the heat beat, or, at least you're trying.